Post by oxymorbid on Jul 21, 2009 17:28:43 GMT -5
As some of you may know, I posted this a lonnnng time ago on PRD...but there are some members here that aren't members over there (I hope) so I'm gonna share it here too
This tutorial is more on the complex side. There are some things that are really hard to explain in writing and pictures. If there is any confusion just ask and I'll try to clear up my instructions for you
FUCK YEAH! it's finally done. when the hell did i start this (chough chough november cough) I'm a lazy bum. It's kinda a long tut. I tried to explain everything the best I could but if you don't know what the hell i'm talking about then feel way free to ask.
Things yer gonna need:
-fabric, about 1-1 ½ yds for a vest or 1 ½-2 yds for a jacket, the amount depends on yer measurements (I used 2 yds and had some left over, but not much)
-fabric for the lining, this should be almost the same length as the other fabric, maybe less
-a long separating zipper
- zippers for pockets, these shouldn’t be separating, I used 2 for my jacket and 4 for my vest
-(optional) heavy duty snaps and tool to put them in, you can get this from a fabric/craft store. I highly suggest you get some nice ones. I used cheapo ones, they suck.
- (optional) old well fitting t-shirt to cut up to make the pattern easier (it’s very weird, so this is suggested if yer not comfortable with the pattern)
THE FRONT:
Okay, the front is the easy part of the pattern, it’s basically a normal t-shirt front, except for the diagonal cut for the zipper and the collar is a different shape (squarish)
There’s two ways to do the back, normally or with the fancy 4 piece back I’ve used for both my vest and jacket.
The only reason for the 4 piece back is really design. You can just make a normal piece for the back to avoid all the trouble of trying to figure out what the hell I’m trying to explain. I suck at explaining, if I don’t make any sense feel free to ask.
THE BACK:
Now here’s where that t shirt comes in handy, you can cut it up to get a pattern before cutting yer actual fabric.
The back is made of 4 parts, 2 sides; a back part and a shoulder part (see the pictures)
Shoulder part:
Back and sides parts:
I’m gonna describe these best I can, look at the picture and cut up yer t-shirt if yer confused.
SIDES:
BACK PART:
SHOULDER PART:
You’ll also need these:
collar
called “extenders” for lack of a better name.
---------------------------------------
Holy crap, now you finally get to sew! About time! If yer not doing the fancy 4 piece back part then you are gonna skip a few of the first steps.
Step one:
sew the two side pieces to yer back piece
Step two:
fold the bottom seam allowance up on the 2 slanted lines so that the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other. You can pin it into place if you want.
Step 3:
pin the shoulder piece to your back piece so that the shoulder piece is on top of the seam allowance. Topstitch them together (sew on top of the fabric).
What the entire back should look like sewn together:
Of course if you’re not doing a fancy back it will just look like the back of a normal shirt.
Step 4:
pin the two front pieces to the back piece and sew them together at the side seams and shoulder seams.
Step 5:
pin yer two collar pieces together (right sides together), and sew on the sides and top BUT NOT ON THE BOTTOM!!!
Step 6:
Flip it inside out so now the wrong sides are inside. Topstitch about ½” around the sewn edge not on the bottom though.
Step 7:
Fold over excess fabric around the neck. Pin the collar to it.
Step 8:
Sew it down with two lines of stitches about ½” apart.
POCKET TIME!!
Step 9:
get yer zipper and cut two pieces of fabric from the fabric that’s for the main jacket (hell, use a different one if you want). The strips are gonna be one inch longer than yer zipper and 2” wide.
Step 10:
fold the sides of the strips under so that the strips now and 1” wide. Sew to lines of stitches on each strip so that the fabric is in place.
Step 11:
sew both strips to the different sides of yer zipper. Putting in zippers is a pain if you don’t use a zipper foot so try and get yer hands on one.
12:
cut a piece of fabric you want for yer pockets, it’s gonna be a little wider than yer zipper and 2 times as long as you want yer pocket to be plus an inch.
13:
fold yer pocket fabric in half and sew up both sides, stopping ½” away from the opening (you’ll be folding these little ½” flaps over)
14:
pin each flap of the pocket to each side of the zipper
MAKE SURE YOU DON’T PIN THE TWO SIDES OF YER POCKET TOGETHER
15:
sew down both sides of the pockets to the zipper. BE VERY AWARE OF WHERE THE POCKET IS WHILE SEWING! I can’t count how many times I’ve accidentally sewn the pocket’s side together.
16:
draw a line as long as yer zipper wherever you want yer pocket to be. Cut on this line, stopping ½” away from both ends and cutting 2 diagonal lines (see picture) so that you can fold the fabric inward.
17:
fold the fabric you just cut inward and pin the zipper into place. Sew the pocket into place, once again being very aware of it so you don’t sew it together.
18:
sew yer lining together
19:
okay, now time to sew extender #1 to the lining that will be on the wide side to lengthen it (so that when you flip over the wide side of yer jacket, the fabric is the same as the exterior.)
20:
take the other extenders ( the ones that are opposite of each other) and sew them right sides together leaving the longest side unsewn so you can flip it right side out. Top stitch in the same manor you did with the collar.
21:
place yer lining in the jacket, fold over the edges, pin in place but don’t sew yet, we need to make a sandwich of fabric and zippers: On the wide side, the zipper is pin in between the outside fabric and the lining; simple. On the short side the zipper is gonna be pinned under the outer fabric, but under it, the two extenders that you sewed together will be pinned under that so that they stick all the way out, THEN the lining will be pinned under that.
Pin down in that order on each side and sew all around, attaching the liner to the jacket, never again being able to see the wrong side of the actual jacket, say yer goodbyes. ::sniff sniff::
22:
look at ya!! You sexy beast! You got yerself a vest! If that’s whatcha wanted then hem the armholes and put yer snaps in. If ya want a jacket…
23:
for all ya jacket people, add the sleeves…if you need a tutorial on this I highly suggest you go to whatthecraft.com. Originally I was going to go over it, but Alexis can probably explain it way better.
now you have a jacket!
24: (optional) you can add snaps, when you get them they should come with the instructions (sometimes it’s the tool that has them). Mark on the jacket in the appropriate places, making sure that when you fold it over it’s not gonna be wrinkled and awkward.
There, yer done.
This tutorial is more on the complex side. There are some things that are really hard to explain in writing and pictures. If there is any confusion just ask and I'll try to clear up my instructions for you
FUCK YEAH! it's finally done. when the hell did i start this (chough chough november cough) I'm a lazy bum. It's kinda a long tut. I tried to explain everything the best I could but if you don't know what the hell i'm talking about then feel way free to ask.
Things yer gonna need:
-fabric, about 1-1 ½ yds for a vest or 1 ½-2 yds for a jacket, the amount depends on yer measurements (I used 2 yds and had some left over, but not much)
-fabric for the lining, this should be almost the same length as the other fabric, maybe less
-a long separating zipper
- zippers for pockets, these shouldn’t be separating, I used 2 for my jacket and 4 for my vest
-(optional) heavy duty snaps and tool to put them in, you can get this from a fabric/craft store. I highly suggest you get some nice ones. I used cheapo ones, they suck.
- (optional) old well fitting t-shirt to cut up to make the pattern easier (it’s very weird, so this is suggested if yer not comfortable with the pattern)
THE FRONT:
Okay, the front is the easy part of the pattern, it’s basically a normal t-shirt front, except for the diagonal cut for the zipper and the collar is a different shape (squarish)
There’s two ways to do the back, normally or with the fancy 4 piece back I’ve used for both my vest and jacket.
The only reason for the 4 piece back is really design. You can just make a normal piece for the back to avoid all the trouble of trying to figure out what the hell I’m trying to explain. I suck at explaining, if I don’t make any sense feel free to ask.
THE BACK:
Now here’s where that t shirt comes in handy, you can cut it up to get a pattern before cutting yer actual fabric.
The back is made of 4 parts, 2 sides; a back part and a shoulder part (see the pictures)
Shoulder part:
Back and sides parts:
I’m gonna describe these best I can, look at the picture and cut up yer t-shirt if yer confused.
SIDES:
BACK PART:
SHOULDER PART:
You’ll also need these:
collar
called “extenders” for lack of a better name.
---------------------------------------
Holy crap, now you finally get to sew! About time! If yer not doing the fancy 4 piece back part then you are gonna skip a few of the first steps.
Step one:
sew the two side pieces to yer back piece
Step two:
fold the bottom seam allowance up on the 2 slanted lines so that the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other. You can pin it into place if you want.
Step 3:
pin the shoulder piece to your back piece so that the shoulder piece is on top of the seam allowance. Topstitch them together (sew on top of the fabric).
What the entire back should look like sewn together:
Of course if you’re not doing a fancy back it will just look like the back of a normal shirt.
Step 4:
pin the two front pieces to the back piece and sew them together at the side seams and shoulder seams.
Step 5:
pin yer two collar pieces together (right sides together), and sew on the sides and top BUT NOT ON THE BOTTOM!!!
Step 6:
Flip it inside out so now the wrong sides are inside. Topstitch about ½” around the sewn edge not on the bottom though.
Step 7:
Fold over excess fabric around the neck. Pin the collar to it.
Step 8:
Sew it down with two lines of stitches about ½” apart.
POCKET TIME!!
Step 9:
get yer zipper and cut two pieces of fabric from the fabric that’s for the main jacket (hell, use a different one if you want). The strips are gonna be one inch longer than yer zipper and 2” wide.
Step 10:
fold the sides of the strips under so that the strips now and 1” wide. Sew to lines of stitches on each strip so that the fabric is in place.
Step 11:
sew both strips to the different sides of yer zipper. Putting in zippers is a pain if you don’t use a zipper foot so try and get yer hands on one.
12:
cut a piece of fabric you want for yer pockets, it’s gonna be a little wider than yer zipper and 2 times as long as you want yer pocket to be plus an inch.
13:
fold yer pocket fabric in half and sew up both sides, stopping ½” away from the opening (you’ll be folding these little ½” flaps over)
14:
pin each flap of the pocket to each side of the zipper
MAKE SURE YOU DON’T PIN THE TWO SIDES OF YER POCKET TOGETHER
15:
sew down both sides of the pockets to the zipper. BE VERY AWARE OF WHERE THE POCKET IS WHILE SEWING! I can’t count how many times I’ve accidentally sewn the pocket’s side together.
16:
draw a line as long as yer zipper wherever you want yer pocket to be. Cut on this line, stopping ½” away from both ends and cutting 2 diagonal lines (see picture) so that you can fold the fabric inward.
17:
fold the fabric you just cut inward and pin the zipper into place. Sew the pocket into place, once again being very aware of it so you don’t sew it together.
18:
sew yer lining together
19:
okay, now time to sew extender #1 to the lining that will be on the wide side to lengthen it (so that when you flip over the wide side of yer jacket, the fabric is the same as the exterior.)
20:
take the other extenders ( the ones that are opposite of each other) and sew them right sides together leaving the longest side unsewn so you can flip it right side out. Top stitch in the same manor you did with the collar.
21:
place yer lining in the jacket, fold over the edges, pin in place but don’t sew yet, we need to make a sandwich of fabric and zippers: On the wide side, the zipper is pin in between the outside fabric and the lining; simple. On the short side the zipper is gonna be pinned under the outer fabric, but under it, the two extenders that you sewed together will be pinned under that so that they stick all the way out, THEN the lining will be pinned under that.
Pin down in that order on each side and sew all around, attaching the liner to the jacket, never again being able to see the wrong side of the actual jacket, say yer goodbyes. ::sniff sniff::
22:
look at ya!! You sexy beast! You got yerself a vest! If that’s whatcha wanted then hem the armholes and put yer snaps in. If ya want a jacket…
23:
for all ya jacket people, add the sleeves…if you need a tutorial on this I highly suggest you go to whatthecraft.com. Originally I was going to go over it, but Alexis can probably explain it way better.
now you have a jacket!
24: (optional) you can add snaps, when you get them they should come with the instructions (sometimes it’s the tool that has them). Mark on the jacket in the appropriate places, making sure that when you fold it over it’s not gonna be wrinkled and awkward.
There, yer done.